The short day

Day 4: Matho Doksa (14,500 ft) to  Gangpoche (14,550 ft) via Matho La.(14,850ft)

Our trek itinerary rated this day as 'Easy' while yesterday was rated 'Difficult'. Also we weren't going to be gaining much altitude. As we started off I probably was expecting a too easy day - wasn't to happen. Atleast 2 times we descended into a valley and climbed up again! The day began quite similar to yesterday - gradual ascent over a green meadow. Some distance into the walk, we descended into a valley for a water crossing. However this wasn't like any of the earlier ones. There was a ice bridge over the water!

We climbed up on the other side and again continued for a while and crossed Matho La. Again the colours of nature were a sight to behold.

Around half an hour before the Ganagpoche campsite we descended into another valley, another water crossing before climbing up again to the campsite.

Unlike the campsites till now, this one had some other camping parties too. Gangpoche falls on some other trekking trails too. There is a permanent tea tent too!

In the evening we climbed to a small hill behind the campsite for acclimatization. It gave nice views of the mountains and the campsite.

Can you spot the campsite in the picture?

After coming down we headed straight to the tea tent to have Maggi over interesting travel stories :)


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The First High Altitude Pass

Day 3: Shang Phu (14,250 ft) to Matho Doksa (14,500 ft) via Shang Phu La (16,750 ft)

Today was going to be the first real test - the first high altitude pass of the trek. As usual we had breakfast and started off. The trail went through a nice green meadow.

The ascent was gradual. We made steady progress. A couple of hours later though I started tiring out. Shang Phu La was not very steep but I was visibly tired by the time I got to the top. Perhaps my breathing technique was not right.

The pass offered great views all around. An interesting mix of barren mountain faces and snow-clad peaks, made more beautiful by the interplay of the sun and the shadows.

At the pass, our trek leader made it seem as if the day's work was almost over. We assumed the campsite was just a quick descent away. However that was not to be. It took us almost an hour to get there. Towards the end it almost seemed like a mirage! At every moment I was hoping that it is round the next bend :)

20 minutes before the camp... the Matho turtle? a la Khardungla frog

Though I was quite tired and the high altitude pass did require a lot of effort, I was quite happy today - no signs of AMS, not even minor ones :)

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The real first day

Day 2: Shang (12,000 ft) to Shang Phu (14250 ft)

Today the real trek begins. Its around 5-6 hours walk. No steep inclines to be climbed. However due to the high altitude its not as comfortable as a similar walk in the plains. The day begins with a water crossing across the camp side stream. The initial walk is along a well levelled path with green fields on both sides and the water stream never too far away.

In a while the smooth road ended and we were walking along the river bed. Its not very comfortable walking on the small rocks and pebbles. And to add to our misery our guide decided to make us climb a small slippery section at a place, so that we could avoid crossing the river twice!

A little ahead on the trail...

The campsite at Shang Phu was besides a shepherd's hut with mud walls all round as well as dividing the area. The setting reminded me of 'hide-n-seek' games from childhood :) Today we pitched our own tents... and no, they didn't fly off :)

Today we were sleeping at 14250 feet, the highest that I had ever slept at!


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The first steps

Day 1: Leh to Shang

Not much walking on this day :) We left by SUVs for our destination for the day, Shang. It’s along a diversion on the Leh-Manali highway from Karu. Once we left the highway, we were on barely motorable roads surrounded by barren hills.

Felt good to be back :) The mountains provide an unexplainable peace. Finally we got off the vehicles and walked about an hour to our camping site for the day.

A nice site by the water side in a surprisingly green valley. And guess what there were mustard fields too… is the tune ringing in the ears? :) There was also a picturesque monastery on an adjacent hill top.

The rest of the support staff was already there with the camping equipment.

It was just a little past noon. With not much to do for the rest of the afternoon, we climbed to the monastery on the nearby hill. Nice views of the campsite and the valley from there

In the evening we had a round of introductions with the support staff followed by dinner. 

Next day the real trek would start!

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Attempting a 6000er: Stok Kangri Trek

~deep breath~ 10 more steps ~deep breath~ 5 more steps ~deep breath~… If you thought I am narrating the final ascent to the peak you are excused. This was us climbing to our second floor room at the guest house just after landing in Leh! The sudden altitude change getting to us.

It all started a few days after the Dzongri trek. Where next was the question. On a high after our first Himalayan trek, Amogh and I ended up deciding on Stok Kangri… perhaps without quite knowing what it takes to climb a 6000+mtr/20000+ feet mountain! To put this in perspective that’s higher than the highest peak in 5 continents! Possibly the highest peak trekable without technical skills. Just 3000 feet below the dreaded ‘death zone’.

And then just climbing the stairs at the guest house we wondered whether the 4 months of training – gym, climbing stairs, Sunday hikes to Sinhagad were going to be sufficient. As the day passed we got better acclimatized and the two floors didn’t seem as daunting.

Next day the other members of the trekking team started arriving. We had registered with Indiahikes for this trek. All of us were very different with our own unique idiosyncracies but had one common characteristic – a bit of madness, as one of my co-trekkers said ‘In the same cost one could enjoy a nice holiday to Pattaya’ :P

Later on in the day we did a small acclimatization climb to the Shanti Stupa on the hill behind our guest house. Provides a nice view of Leh. Stok Kangri looks quite formidable from here!

Later on after some last minute shopping in Leh we were back at the guest house for a late briefing by our trek leader.

Hit the sack quite late with dreams of the ’morrow.

Day 1: Leh to Shang

Day 2: Shang to Shang Phu

Day 3: Shang Phu to Matho

Day 4: Matho to Gangpoche

Day 5: Gangpoche to Base Camp

Days 6 & 7: Rest day and Summit Attempt

Day 8: Base Camp to Stok village

Looking back...

Plus Valley Tamhini Ghat

Its peak summer here. Pune of late has been blistering hot! A weekend hike in such weather was a adventure in itself!

Tamhini Ghat is a 1-2 hour drive out of Pune. Plus Valley is so named as it resembles a '+' shape, located in the midst of four hills. There is no signpost indicating the point from where one can decent the valley. The only indicator is a drain pipe that butts out into the valley at the start of the trail. This point is approx 3-4 km before the Garud Machi resort.

The valley view from the start point

The descending trail is a steep one with sharp cut rocks. In monsoons water must be flowing through here with great force.

At the centre point of the '+', we turned right. The terrain here is quite flat and offers a good spot to camp overnight. There were a couple of places were water had accumulated. The water was potable. A little ahead there is a sharp drop into the valley. Rock climbers frequent this valley.

After spending an hour admiring the natural beauty and devouring the breakfast we were carrying, we set back. The climb under the blazing sun was sapping.

Plus valley is a nice day trip from Pune, though camping here would be great fun as well. Best season to go would be winter, when the water streams have dried out but the vegetation has not!

Karnala Trek

Its been almost 6 months since I last traveled! Was dying to get back on the road. While the next long trip remains elusive, a small day trek to Karnala was a welcome break.

The Karnala fort is located around 12 kms from Panvel on the Mumbai-Goa highway. The fort is said to date back to the 13th/14th century. In the present form, the approach road to the fort begins through the Karnala Bird Sanctuary. Was happy to see that at the gate to the sanctuary, visitors' bags are checked for plastic bottles and bags. A deposit is collected for each item. The deposit gets refunded only when the bags/bottles are shown at the time of exit!

There are two ways to climb the fort. The shorter route, on the right hand side is steeper. It climbs in almost a  straight line to the fort. It took us around an hour and a half to climb up at a leisurely pace. Most part of the route is through a dense forest. Many bird sounds were audible, however in our eagerness to get to the top, we did not wait patiently to spot them. After the steep climb the route joins a vast open plateau, followed by a small climb to the fort. The fort has a few steps and some walls in ruins. Like most of the forts in the region there is a well with cool drinking water. Climbing the peak is dangerous and prohibited.

On the way down we took the longer route. Luckily this route too passes through a dense green cover. Many monkeys along this track! We were back at the base by 1 pm and headed to Karnala restaurant, a couple of kms down the road for a nice fish lunch washed down with lots of kokam sherbat!

All in all a nice day trek. Probably more picturesque in the monsoon/post-monsoon season, while winters is a better time for bird watching.

The map at the sanctuary entrance

The peak as seen from the start of the trail

The Golden Orion

The Golden Orion zoom

Bird nest

View from midway

Curiously all the branch-ends point upwards!

The plateau

The entrance to the fort

View from behind the entrance

Four of us at the fort gate

The fort and the peak behind

Monkeying around